Procedure
- Support the car high and level on four stands. Disconnect the battery, then remove the intercooler, TGV/intake clutter over the bellhousing, starter, and upper bellhousing bolts from the engine bay — they are far easier from the top.
- Underneath: drain the gearbox, remove the exhaust up-pipe-back, driveshaft, front axles from the hubs, shifter linkage, and the transmission crossmember with the box supported on a trans jack.
- Separate the box and walk it back off the dowels. A 5MT is light enough for two people but never balance it on the jack alone while wrestling — pin it with a strap.
- Remove the pressure plate and clutch, then the flywheel (12-point bolts). Resurface or replace the flywheel every clutch job; a glazed surface will make any new clutch judder.
- Replace the pilot bearing in the crank and the throwout bearing on the fork, and lightly grease the fork pivot and input shaft splines — a smear, not a handful.
- Install the flywheel with threadlocker to spec, then the new clutch aligned with the tool, torquing the pressure plate in a star pattern in stages.
- Refit the box, torque the bellhousing in sequence, reassemble everything in reverse, and refill with GL-5 75W-90 to the fill plug.
- Bed the clutch gently for the first 300 miles: normal starts, no launches, no wide-open pulls in high gears.
Work at your own risk. Torque values and procedures vary by vehicle — always confirm against the factory service manual for your exact model.