Procedure
- Symptoms decoder: pedal slowly firming up as you pump = air or failing master. Engagement point wandering = master seals. Fluid low with a damp firewall carpet = master leaking INTO the cabin. Damp bellhousing side = slave.
- Check the clutch reservoir (shared with brake fluid on some models) - dark fluid means it's never been serviced.
- Bleed: helper presses and HOLDS the clutch pedal, you crack the slave bleeder into tubing, close, then pedal up. Repeat until bubble-free and clear.
- Slave test: with the bleeder closed, watch the slave pushrod while the helper pedals - full, smooth travel means the hydraulics move; no travel with a firm pedal points at the master.
- Replacing a slave is a 30-minute two-bolt job; do the flexible hose with it if it's original.
- A master swap adds under-dash contortion at the pedal clevis pin - annoying, not hard. Bench-bleed or gravity-bleed the new master before final bleed.
- If hydraulics test perfect but engagement is still high and slipping under boost - that's the actual clutch, and the 5MT clutch guide is your next read.
Work at your own risk. Torque values and procedures vary by vehicle — always confirm against the factory service manual for your exact model.