Procedure
- Inspect first: pry between arm and subframe to find torn bushings, and rock the wheel at 3 and 9 for ball joint play. Cracked rear arm bushings are near-universal on GDs.
- Decide: pressing new bushings into old arms saves money; complete loaded arms save an afternoon and come with new ball joints. Most people should buy arms.
- Break the ball joint pinch bolt free at the knuckle - the single rustiest bolt on the car. Heat and patience; snapping it means drilling.
- Separate the ball joint from the knuckle, then unbolt the arm's front pivot and rear bushing bracket from the subframe.
- Fit the new arm loosely - every bolt started, nothing torqued. Sway bar end link last.
- Torque the pivot bolts only at ride height (car on ramps or a helper compressing the suspension). Torquing rubber bushings at full droop preloads them and they tear within a year.
- Torque ball joint pinch bolt and end links to spec, then get an alignment - new arms always shift toe.
Work at your own risk. Torque values and procedures vary by vehicle — always confirm against the factory service manual for your exact model.